Frogger and the Red Guard

They say there are 22 million people in Beijing and I am almost certain I encountered one third of them today. It amazing to me how during peak times of the day they congregate, waiting for buses, taxi's etc. There are times the streets are stagnant, unmovable because of the masses of people.

Class began today and went really well. During my lunch hour I need to find some office supplies. Henry, the program director, informed me of an office supply store in the underground parking lot below Starbucks. I left in search of the store and as I walked I soon found myself not knowing where I was going. I rounded a deserted corner only to find 5 Red Guardsmen keeping watch near a door. They were surprised to see me. In my perkiest voice I asked, "Does anyone speak English?" They all just stared at me. I motioned to see if I could walk forward and they nodded in agreement.

No sooner had I walked past them then I saw the Epson sign letting me know I had found my store. I purchased my supplies and exited. As I re-entered the hallway where the guardsmen were I held up my office supply bag to declare myself victorious in my pursuit. They all lost the solemn composure they had when I had arrived and they laughed. I smiled and walked past them, as I did, I heard one say in the worst Chinese New Yorker accent, "How YOU doin'?" It was priceless.

This evening was a milestone for me. I needed more office supplies and Henry suggested I not go to the Epson store because of the exuberant pricing. So, armed with only my backpack, some not to clear directions and a heightened sense of confidence I fought the 5:30 pm crowds in search of the illusive 'Walmart Supercenter."

I started my 15 block journey. I walked, I motioned, I said, "Walmart?" I found that only the newspaper guy was happy to assist me in my quest by pointing down the street and saying, "Yes. Walmart." Eventually I found my basement supercenter and searched through the 15 reams of copy paper they had on the shelves. There was a much greater selection of soybean grinders than office supplies! I walked through the store though taking in the foods they offered. There were mounds of hot pink Dragon Fruits and the cutest steamed buns you can imagine. There were roasted ducks and ducks in bags. It was wonderful to see all the varieties.

Leaving Walmart I felt I had truly accomplished something. I searched for familiar buildings and began pecking my way back to my hotel through the enormous crowds that began to clutter the sidewalks. I have learned to push through the masses rather than touch them on the arm and say, "Please, excuse me," for you see, here in China it is considered far more rude to touch and speak then to simply plow through.

I have learned to cross the street alone now, and often I find I am leading the crowd. I have determined it is much like the video game Frogger. You simply watch, move, dart, stop, and when necessary run like hell. It is an adrenaline rush almost every time I cross. I have watched no less than 100 men push against one nostril while they blow the contents of the other onto the sidewalk, often directly in my path. Spitting is considered A.O.K. and when I blow my nose into a napkin I get more stares than you do at home when you burp really loud in a 4 star restaurant.

Walking home from Walmart I had a renewed confidence in myself. I had found my way around during the busiest time of day. I moved at a rapid pace keeping up with the crowds. I found myself smiling even more and talking out loud to myself occasionally to say, "Wow! This is a REALLY good day." I found myself maneuvering the streets like a local, and when i could no longer breath clearly because of the pollution I simply snorted a little and spit in the direction furthest to my right side. I looked up and caught the gaze of an older man, wondering if he found me offensive. As I tried to keep pace walking I noticed he smiled. It was at that moment I realized what I was actually feeling was in the slightest way being confirmed. I fit in. I was part of the 22 million, and for a brief moment through one cultural act - albiet disgusting, I was a local!