Tea

Today started with some very sad news. I spoke with a friend at home who informed me that my childhood friend had taken her life yesterday. It saddened me that she was in a place that none of us realized she was in. I think back to our youth and Tresa was a sweet, happy kid. Thanks to Facebook, we became acquainted again, as adults, after a 28 year hiatus. I will miss her wit, her moments of tender concern and sharing stories about our poodle babies :) She will be missed.

I started out in an effort to get to Tian'anmen Square and take in the sights and sounds this morning. After arriving I was amazed that not only had they fenced off the largest public square in the world, but I had to go through a guard checkpoint, purse scan and body wanding. Having passed all (whew!) I began to walk rapidly. It was frigid. After being offered a panda beenie and a Chairman Mao revolving hand watch, a young woman approached. I could feel the scam coming on so I kept walking.

I was wearing a red cashmere coat my husband had bought me, (thanks honey. I was WARM), and she told me how traditional I looked, how well my hair went with my jacket. She said, "You are wery, wery traditional in color, red jacket - yellow hair. Wery Chinese." I prefer to think of myself as a chemically enhanced blonde, not a yellow hair! I ditched her and moved on.

Walking the streets I had memories of having been in the same area back in 2006. I walked, smelling the roasting chestnuts and hazlenuts that the vendors were selling. It was positively heavenly. I stumbled across a street that looked festive and lively. My first stop found me in a small fruit market where I procured 7 - yes, 7 fresh mangosteens! For anyone who has never had a fresh mangosteen, they alone are worth a trip to asia. I was almost jumping with joy, as was the vendor, because I am sure I paid more than market value for them.

I continued down the street and found myself looking inside a small but cozy tea shop. The owner joyfully ran to the door and ushered me inside. He asked me to sit and turned his floor heater towards me to keep me warm. He spoke very limited english, but over the duration of the next two hours I had one of the most memorable experiences of my life.

While we tried to carry on conversation he would reach up onto the shelf and bring down tin after tin of fresh teas. When I showed interest in one he would brew up some water, measure the tea and serve me. He used small cups, about the equivalent of a shot. We talked as best we could and then he would brew another tea. I learned how many times you can steep each tea, and that USA = NBC. He knew of NBC and was very proud of that.

I lost count at about 35 cups. Oh yes, this went on an on. It was fantastic. He then showed me a clay figurine that when you pour hot water on him he absorbs it and pees it out. We laughed and laughed. Next he offered me a cigarette, and using the best sign language he could for airplane he let me know that he brought them with him from Fujian. Being a non smoker I did what all non-smokers would do, I said "Sure." He then handed me a sardine can with the lid half pulled back to use as my ashtray. It was hilarious. I smiled and said "this has been the best day." He didn't understand, but then I smiled and said, "Thank you." He leaned back in his chair, cigarette in hand and said, "No, Thank YOU!"

He gave me many gifts, and I bought many teas. He asked me to come back and we will try Oolong next time. I got up, paid my bill and went around the little table where we shared tea and hugged him. He was taken aback, but enjoyed it and laughed. It was awesome. All of this tea made it so I needed the bathroom, badly! I turned down a back alley hutong (the slums) and smelled out the public restroom. I entered, only to find 6 squat toilets, three of which had patrons using them. There are no walls or dividers, but since I avoided eye contact it was a bit more comfortable.

After leaving I happened upon a lively street fair celebrating the lantern festival. There were literally thousand of paper lanters strewn throughout the streets and dangling in the air above the streets. The colors were vibrant and the people were happy and laughing and enjoying their day. I walked through candy stores and squeezed the whole ducks they sell in foil bags (to the disbelieving stares of many), and I bargained with a street hocker, only to be told I was cheap.

I bought a candy called Honey Cake. It is honey infused with mass amounts of air and cooked to where it feels more like freeze dried than anything. It is crunchy but when you bite it, it just sort of disapates because of all the air, and it leaves the most wonderful honey flavor in your mouth. It is delicious!

I was worn out, I think I covered several miles today. I watched and listened, offering up smiles and the traditional greeting of Ni Hao to most everyone who would look back at me. I noticed once again that it is the men who respond, and the small children. I love these people. I love the lines on their faces and the expression in their eyes. I love their quiet nature and their ability to endure. I love that they can survive in a country that doesn't allow them many freedoms. They are strong, they are resiliant. They don't have much, but what they have they will share - be it tea or cigaretts or a smile that hasn't been forced out of them in years. It is a good place, it is my happy place and I will go to bed tonight satisfied.